Masks

Now, with many areas requiring the use of masks in public, along with social distancing, I watched a lot of you-tube videos before starting to sew masks, and developed my own version, using parts of various masks I saw on the videos. My oldest daughter makes them with elastic that goes around the head, rather than around the ears, and I liked that idea, so that’s how I make mine.

Masks, with filter pocket:

Materials: 

fat quarter or 9" strip of 40" fabric

24" of 1/4" elastic

2 plastic-coated wire twist ties, layered together

Scissors or rotary cutter with mat

ruler

sewing machine

thread

One fat quarter makes 2 complete masks with literally no waste, if the fat quarters are truly 18” x 21”.

Cut fat quarter down the middle, making 2 rectangles, 9” x 21”.

Cut the 21” length into three 7” pieces. It’s helpful to cut these two strips right sides together, so the pairs are ready for marking and sewing.

This results in six rectangles, each 7” x 9”. Three pieces are needed for each mask, 2 for the back and one for the front.

Mark a line in the  middle of the back of one of the 7" sides, about 2-3/4” long, from the top and bottom, leaving the middle part without a line.

These are the sewing lines for the back.  Put two rectangles, right sides together with wrong sides facing outward, and sew along each of the short lines, back stitching to reinforce the stitching at the end of the line that is at the middle portion of the mask. The portion that is not sewn will form the slit for inserting a filter, if one is desired.

Fold one side of the back over to the outside edge, with the stitching inside the fold. Flip over and repeat for the other side. The slit in the middle is now exposed, and the right side of the fabric is showing on both sides of the backing. Press.

Cut two 12” pieces of ¼” elastic. Pin elastic about ¾” from edge of backing, with slit horizontal to the elastic bands. Be careful not to twist elastic bands. Pin front to back, right sides together, and

stitch ¼” from edges all the way around, taking care not to catch the long part of the elastic in your seam.

 Remove pins, and clip all four corners to reduce the bulk. Turn right side out through the slit in the back. Carefully poke all four corners out. Press well.

Layer 2 plastic-coated wire twist ties and insert into the slit in back, pushing them into the center of one long side, clipping them into place.

Using a zig-zag stitch, stitch over the wire ties to secure them in place. These wire ties will enable the wearer to shape the mask to the bridge of their nose. 

Form two pleats in each side of the mask, with folds away from the center in front. It helps to bring the pleat to the edge of the elastic. The side should measure about 3-1/2”, with both pleats in place.  Sew a generous ¼” seam along each side, stitching the pleats in place. Hint: I used a hem marker to make sure the mask measures close to 3-1/2", but you could also cut a template 3-1/2" long from a piece of cardboard (such as a cereal box) or a manila file folder.

Topstitch about 1/8” from all 4 sides. The mask is complete.

I ordered some Halyard fabric, which is supposed to be one of the best materials for filtering out any virus or bacteria in the air. I read to make the filters 5” x 5”, so I cut the fabric into squares that size (there are two layers that are not bonded) and zig-zagged around them to join the layers.  The two layers are the same, but different colors, so you know which side has been close to your face. This is the fabric hospitals use for protecting sterilized tools, etc., and is not washable. It can be sterilized by putting in a 165 degree oven for 30 minutes. Some people use other materials for filters, such as interfacing or coffee filters. My daughter does not put a filter pocket in hers, but she bonds interfacing to the inside of the mask, giving it a third layer of protection. This mask has three layers of fabric, but the Halyard filter will offer additional protection, if you choose to use that.

I think life as we knew it will change, probably for an extended time. If it will prevent deaths, it is worth making some changes. Self-isolation is not a difficult switch for me, since I seldom go anywhere. The difference is that now my family does not come over regularly, and although they call to check on me daily, I miss the human contact. We are a family of huggers, and hugs are in short supply when I live alone. Tonight, my oldest daughter stopped over to bring me some prescriptions and dinner from Chipotle’s… and picked up some more fabric for making masks. In return, I got a big, warm hug that will last me for a few days! 

My stash of fabric is coming in handy at this point! Many of the quilters I know are making masks… some, by the hundreds, to donate where needed. I’ve read some negative remarks on social media about people selling masks. It makes me sad to read those comments, because fabric is not free, nor is elastic or thread, and although some seamstresses have said it takes 10 minutes to make a mask, it takes me longer than that to cut and mark them! Many people have lost their jobs, or are on minimal pay at this time. If some people can use their skills to help get through this difficult period financially, then I think it’s wonderful they have this opportunity. If they don’t need the money and donate their time and materials, that’s wonderful, as well. It’s heartwarming to see how people are stepping up to help where help is needed. Who knew that sewing would become a Super Power and our fabric stashes could be saving lives?  Stay safe, where ever you may be... and wear your mask with pride! 

Selvage Strip Snack Mat

Some inventive fabric designers have begun using clever motifs instead of printing the color coordination “dots” on the selvage of the fabric.  Instead, they often coordinate the color compatibility choices using motifs that complement the fabric, with things such as butterflies, flowers, leaves, animals, birds, fans, etc.  Then other clever people came up with ideas for using those selvages in innovative ways instead of tossing them into the garbage can.  Pictured below is my current pile of strips on the cutting mat.

Incidentally, there appear to be two spellings of selvedge... or selvage... and each of them is acceptable, not to be confused with salvage, which refers to rescued property. One of my friends surprised me with an adorable pincushion made of selvage strips, and said there is a myriad of ideas on Pinterest for using these selvages in ways we would never imagine! 

A Minnesota quilter on one of my quilting lists said she makes orphan quilt blocks into 12” x 18” place mats, and donates them to a Meals on Wheels program, where they are given to shut-ins when the meals are delivered.  That sparked an idea in my mind.  I love snack mats, or mug rugs, to set my mugs and glasses on that protect my furniture… and thought it would be neat to make them out of the selvage strips. Last night, I treated myself to an evening of “fun” sewing… and stitched up a couple.  They can be made in any size you choose… and I think the strips would be great for making a set of coasters with 5” charm squares as the backing, to give as a gift for someone special. It would be a perfect way to use leftover charm squares, as well as using leftover batting pieces. I love the colorful mats, but perhaps no one would appreciate them as much as another quilter!   

Here’s how I made mine. 

Cut the backing and batting to the desired size. My examples are 10” squares. Lay the batting on the wrong side of the backing.  

See photo on left.

Place one pin on each of the 4 sides to keep the layers in place while you begin sewing strips on the batting, shown above on right.

Begin by placing one strip diagonally across the center of the batting side. Pin it in place on each end to secure the strip. Each strip will have a selvage edge and a cut edge, with a bit of the fabric showing, where it was cut from the width of the fabric.  Choose a second strip and either slide the cut edge under the selvage edge of the strip you have pinned in the center, or place the selvage edge over the cut edge of the strip you have pinned on the center, depending on which side of the center strip you are working on. See photo on left.  Stitch as close to the edge of the selvage as you can, securing the two strips to the batting. Your stitching line will also quilt the layers together.  Be sure to remove the pins when you reach them, so you don’t sew over them. Continue to choose strips and sew them outward from the center until the batting is completely covered, as in photo below on the right.

 Looking at the back side, you will have diagonal rows of quilting covering the backing.  See photo below on left.

 

When you have covered the whole square of batting, put it on your cutting board, backing side up. Using a rotary cutter and ruler that is longer than your snack mat and using your backing as a guide, trim all edges of the selvages even with the backing. Now your mat is ready for binding.

See photo at right.

Binding: Cut strips of the background fabric or coordinating fabric the width of your choice… for the 10” square, one strip of binding fabric cut the width of fabric was enough to go around the mat. If binding is not familiar to you, there are many you-tube videos demonstrating the process. I cut my strip 2” wide. I also do my quilt bindings this way, but use 2-1/2" wide strips for them.

Press the strip in half along the long edge, wrong sides together so your binding is doubled with both raw edges together. Turn one end in to form an arrow point.  Press well… it’s okay to use steam! Then fold it along the center again and press neatly.  See photo below, right.

Beginning a few inches away from the “point” you pressed, line the binding up with the edge of the snack mat, so that the raw edges are all lined up together, and begin sewing.  Start sewing a few inches beyond the “point”, leaving that portion until you finish, as you will tuck the other end of the binding into that arrow point before sewing that last portion. I start at about the middle of one side, and I do not pin when sewing the binding on at this point, just line it up as I go. 

On the corners, bring the binding corner “loop” up so the fold is even with the side you just finished sewing. There are You-tube videos demonstrating that, if you do not know how to sew the corners of the binding.  Then bring the edge of the binding even with the mat edge and sew each side until you come to the last side. See photo at right.

Put the end of the binding into that arrow point, so that it is well covered, and then cut the excess binding off and finish sewing the binding. See photo below, left.  

I sew from the front side, but some prefer to sew it to the back side and topstitch from the front.  After the binding is stitched down, turn the folded edge to the back of the mat and pin or clip it so that the folded edge is just covering the stitching line. 






Then stitch from the front, next to the binding, and it should catch the edge of the binding on the back.  I have some vision problems, so I stitch along the edge of the binding. Using a thread color matching the binding helps to disguise any errors, but I just used the same off-white I used to sew the strips on.  I strive to be neat with my stitching, but at this point in my life, I think close is just fine!  I sew for the joy of sewing, and if my stitching isn’t as pretty as it once was, I accept that… or my frustration would force me to give up one of the things that gives me fulfillment and satisfies my creative needs. There are no quilt police in my neighborhood to pass judgement on me, thank goodness!

Finished snack mat is shown on the right,  The distortion is from my photo angle. Now I am excited to make some small, 5" coaster sized mats.  I might also experiment with some different ways of binding them.  With my diminished eyesight, it's difficult for me to machine sew binding on neatly.  Hand stitching the final seam would make a neater binding, I believe, but it would also be difficult to see well to do the hand hemming, so it is a Catch 22.

I have two baby quilts to get finished for Cairo... then I will be free to work on more of the quilts that are forming in my  mind, beckoning to be translated into fabric.  I also have a huge bin of finished tops to sandwich and quilt. I think I'll need to live a lot more years to get everything finished! 

Happy sewing to you all, where ever you may be! Spring is coming... the squirrels are busily performing their high-wire acts in my back yard, so I am convinced that warmer weather must be on the way.

Knitted Preemie Hat

Baby Cairo arrived about a month earlier than he was expected, and is tiny… so he needs to preserve his body heat.  The photo at right was taken when he was only a few days old... already smiling and happy to be part of his family!

They gave him a sweet little knitted stocking cap at the hospital, and I knitted him another one. He just got it today, and his mama texted me a couple of photos of him wearing it… it fits perfectly! Here’s a photo below, of the completed hat and the very simple pattern I used to knit it.

Preemie Hat:

Supplies needed:

Size 8 double pointed knitting needles (mine are bamboo, 5 needles to a set)

Soft worsted weight yarn (weight 4); I used Bernat; it does not use much yarn.

Yarn needle

Knitting marker

Cast on 40 stitches, not too tightly . Divide among 4 needles, 10 stitches per needle, taking care not to twist stitches.

Place a marker for beginning of round.

Rounds 1-6: Knit 2, Purl 2 around to form ribbing.  Begin stockinette stitch.

*Knit 5 rows around.  Next row: Purl around.  The purl row will create the ridged pattern.

Repeat these 6 rows four times, then knit every row until cap measures about 4-1/2” long.

Begin decreases to form crown; note that sometimes you will need to transfer a stitch to the adjoining needle to make the decreases.

Row 1 (decrease row): *Knit 6, knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 35 stitches.

Row 2: Knit to end of round.

Row 3 (decrease row): *Knit 5, knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 30 stitches.

Row 4: Knit to end of round.

Row 5 (decrease row): *Knit 4, knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 25 stitches.

Row 6: Knit to end of round.

Row 7 (decrease row): *Knit 3, Knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 20 stitches.

Row 8: Knit to end of round.

Row 9 (decrease row): *Knit 2, Knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 15 stitches.

Row 10: Knit to end of round.

Row 11 (decrease row): *Knit 1, Knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 10 stitches.

Row 12: Knit to end of round.

Row 13: *Knit 2 together; repeat from * around; 5 stitches.

Place the remaining stitches on one double pointed needle.

Decrease one stitch, so there are 4 stitches remaining.

Using 2 double pointed needles, knit an I-cord with the remaining 4 stitches.

Row 1: Knit all 4 stitches. Do not turn the work, but slide the stitches to the beginning of the needle.

Row 2: Knit all 4 stitches.  The yarn will be carried from behind the ending stitch to the beginning, forming the I-cord. 

Repeat these 2 rows until I-cord is desired length, about 1” or 2”.

Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to thread into a yarn needle.  Draw yarn through all 4 stitches, and secure well.  Pass needle through the “tube” of the I-cord, hiding the yarn tail, if desired.

The cap with the ribbing turned up is pictured at left.

Here's Cairo wearing his new hat, wrapped in the shawl I crocheted for him.  I asked my granddaughter (his mama) if she wanted more hats, and she laughed and said he's growing fast, so I'd better make them a little bigger! 

Babies are truly little miracles... I remember looking at my own babies in awe, amazed at how quickly they grew and changed, day to day. Now, my "babies" range in age from 42 (43 in a few days) to 57. I still can remember how they looked and how I felt when I first cradled them in my arms. No matter how old they get, they are still our cherished babies... and those memories live within us always.

And now... another generation of babies are adding another layer of sweetness to our family. I am proud of my grandchildren, seeing what good parents they are.  My children have done well, raising their children to be loving and patient adults.   Most weekends, my son and daughter bring their grandbabies (and often the babies' mothers) over to bond with each other and with me... it's one of my greatest blessings, to be part of their lives in a tangible way.  It's one more reason I'm happy I moved to be closer to my family.

These little hats take very little yarn and I knit one in just a few hours... although I am not a fast knitter.  The one Cairo received in the hospital is striped, of several yarns. It's a wonderful way to use up yarn left from other projects, and provide a needed ministry, donating them to local hospitals to be given to newborns. If you aren't a knitter, I'm sure crocheted versions would be welcomed, as well.  There are many services that are based on donations like this... Project Linus is one, with quilts and blankets given to children in hospitals. Our church quilting group made quilts for them, as well.  Even as we become less mobile, we can still work on projects like these, and feel useful, with a purpose.  Babies will blossom, wrapped in the love gifts we make!   

Shell Stitch Baby Shawl

January 17, and winter has come to the heartland! There’s about 8 inches of snow on the deck and picnic table… and the ground.  We were fortunate to escape the snow for this long… last week, the temperatures were in the upper 50’s! It is pretty outside, but I was hoping the warmer weather would last a bit longer.  At least, we often have spring weather in March, so we may not have to view a white landscape for long… certainly not as long as my Minnesota friends and family have to endure the cold and snow.  The temperature is 39 degrees right now, and the forecast predicts temperatures in the 40's the next few days, but we are expecting another snowstorm toward the end of the week!  The "Sprinkle" for baby Cairo has been postponed, due to the predicted snowstorm.  I didn't know they have baby showers for babies after the first... but they are called "Sprinkles" now.  

I’ve been busy crocheting a baby shawl for my new little great-grandson, who was due the beginning of February, but he made his appearance just after midnight Sunday morning, so that means he was born on January 13th. 

He weighed in at 5 pounds 9 ounces, and is 19 inches long. Welcome to our family… and the world, Cairo Donavon Davis!  I just finished his shawl Friday night, and am now working on a couple of baby quilts for him.

Newborn, left photo

One day old, photo on right

Big brother, Arlo, is happy to have his little baby brother, but is quick to let him know that Tricia is HIS grandma, and he isn't very willing to share her at this time. 

Shell Stitch Baby Shawl:

Crochet Hook: J/10

Yarn needle

Baby Sport Yarn, weight class 3, 1 ball  (12.3 oz.)

Finished Measurement: approximately 34  x 36                                                                                   

Pattern difficulty: Easy

Key to abbreviations:   

Chain (ch)

Single crochet (sc)

double crochet (dc)

slip stitch (sl st)

skip (sk)

stitch (st)

space (sp)

Using J hook, chain 122 stitches (multiple of 8 plus 2).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, *sk next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch; repeat from * across; turn—Twenty 5-dc shells.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 2 dc in first sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc (center dc of 5-dc shell), sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next sc (5-dc shell), sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc (center dc of 5-dc shell), sk next 2 dc; repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc; turn—Nineteen 5-dc shells and one 3-dc half-shell at each end.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first chain, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc (center dc of 5-dc shell), sk next 2 dc; repeat from * across, ending with sc in top of last dc in the set of 3 dc shell.

Repeat Rows 2–3 to desired size, or until all yarn is used, ending with a complete row.  I left a bit of yarn to do Round 1 of the border, then switched to ivory yarn to do rows 2 and 3.

Border (shown in photos):

Round 1: work sc evenly spaced around all edges of blanket, working 3 sc in each corner; join with sl st in first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, ch 1, sk 1 sc, working 3 sc in each corner; repeat from * around; join with sl st in first sc.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *sc in each sc (2), 3 dc in each ch 1 space; repeat from * around, working 6 dc in center of each corner. Join with sl st in first sc. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Block lightly, if desired.

Today is my oldest little sister's birthday, and also was my parents' wedding anniversary.  Happy birthday, Dianne!  Dad lives with her now that our mother is gone, and they take good care of each other.  I hope they are having sunny weather and are able to get out to celebrate!

If the sun isn't shining today where you live, add a few more smiles to brighten your surroundings!  Everything is better when you're smiling.

Traditions and Christmas Stockings

Christmas is just around the corner!  I’ve been ignoring the ads, which began right after Halloween this year.  The commercialism has obliterated much of the joy I normally felt around the holiday, and the result is that we do no longer do a lot of gift-giving in my family… I give gift certificates so that everyone can get what they want during the after-holiday sales.  It’s easy to get caught up in the buying, with all the ads that dominate all media contacts, but it has the opposite effect on me.  I am more focused on the traditions within our family that make the holiday more meaningful to me, at least. Traditions are a legacy of love that provide a window to the past, awakening memories that bring us joy… my mother started some of our traditions, many years ago, when my sisters and I began having children. She made all of the grandchildren pajamas for Christmas, and they were cherished by all of the grandchildren, and worn (as long as they could still fit into them) until the legs were definitely high-water britches!  I continued that tradition for many years… until the children began preferring lounge pants to nightgowns and pajamas.  One year, when my oldest grandson was getting ready for church, he asked if he could wear his new “flannel suit”!  Another tradition my mother started was to give each family member an ornament, and I also continued that tradition.  When each child leaves home, they already have a collection of memories in their box of ornaments that will grace their own Christmas trees. 

I also started a few traditions of my own… when my children were small, I made them Advent banners that they filled with candy the end of November.  They were hung side by side, and the children were allowed to remove one candy each day until Christmas Eve, when they got to the last piece. A few years ago when all of my children and their families were here for Thanksgiving, we all worked together to make Advent banners for each of the grandchildren and for other family members. I posted a blog on those; you will find the link listed on the right side of my blog. At Thanksgiving this year, they filled their banners before returning home.  It brought a smile to my face, watching them choose their favorite candies and tie them to their banners, reminding me of many Advent seasons long past, when their parents were young.  Another tradition I started was to knit Christmas stockings with Fair Isle patterns for my children.  The pattern originally was featured in a McCall’s Needlework and Craft magazine in the mid-70’s… over 40 years ago!  As each child married, I knit one for the new family member, and then for each of the grandchildren, as they arrived.  Now, I have two great-grandchildren I’m knitting stockings for, so the tradition continues. I am not a fast knitter, and now I am beginning to experience neuropathy in my fingers, so I have to stop often and shake my hands to alleviate the numbness… it takes me nearly a week to knit a stocking now! Here is my version of the pattern, in case you want to start a tradition of these stockings in your own families.

Christmas Fair Isle Stocking Pattern:

Knitting worsted, off-white or cream, 4 oz. (or more, if you make a larger stocking like I did)

Red and Green, about 1 oz. each, depending on pattern

Knitting needles, size US 5; I like circular needles so the weight is evenly distributed

Double pointed needles, US 5; if you have a set of 5, that works better than a set of 4

Yarn bobbins, wound with red and green yarn for pattern

3 Stitch holders

Yarn needle

Snippers

Crochet hook to pick up any dropped stitches… just in case! 

Stitch counter is helpful.

Graph the name to fit in 72 stitches; I used 4 stitches across for most letters, and 5 rows down.

I put a design before and after the name, centered on the stitches available. This is where your math knowledge comes in handy!

Choose graphs to repeat in 72 stitches, adding plain stitches between designs, as needed.

I did a border between designs, using designs about 3 or 4 stitches across and 3 or 4 rows down, and 2 plain rows of white before and after the border design.

Be sure, when carrying yarn for colorwork, to pick up the yarn in use under the previous yarn, to avoid holes in your work. I twisted yarn every 2 to 4 stitches.

Measure off about 65 inches of white yarn; tie a slip knot.

Cast on 72 stitches.

Knit 2, purl 2 in ribbing for 15 rows.

Begin stockinet stitch, knit 1 row, purl 1 row for main body of sock.

Knit 2 rows in stockinette stitch, then begin pattern.  There are a wealth of patterns on graphs on the internet, if you need ideas for your stockings.

Work patterns to make the stocking top the length of your choice. This stocking measures about 19” from ribbing to the end of the patterns.  End with finishing a purl row.

Begin Instep:

Put first 18 stitches and last 18 stitches on stitch holders; the remaining middle 36 stitches form the instep. 

Knit in patterns until the instep measures desired length (this one is around 8-1/2”).  Last row: Decrease 2 stitches at beginning and end of row.  Put remaining 32 stitches of instep on a stitch holder.

Block the stocking lightly, and tie off/weave in all yarn ends. Since this is not for wear, it doesn’t matter so much if there are knots on the back/inside of the stocking, but it will get lots of stress in its use as a stocking to stuff with gifts, so make sure the knots are secure.  Some of my stockings have stood the test of over 40 years of use! 

Stocking with instep finished and stitches on stitch holder, shown at left.  Backside of stocking, before yarn ends are woven in, shown below.

Heel: Put heel stitches on a needle with back edges meeting at the center of the needle. Join contrasting color.  I used green for all the boys’ stockings and red for the girls’ stockings.

Row 1: *Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across row.

Row 2: *Slip 1, purl across.

Repeat these two rows until there are 27 rows.  Cut contrasting color; attach white yarn.

Turn Heel: With white, purl one row.

Row 2: (Right side) Knit 23, Knit 2 together, turn.

Row 3: Purl 11, Purl 2 together, turn.

Row 4: Knit 11, Knit 2 together, turn.  Repeat these last 2 rows until 12 stitches remain. Cut white yarn.

Shape Heel: From right side, with White yarn, pick up and Knit 17 stitches on side of heel.  Knit across 12 heel stitches, pick up and Knit 17 stitches on other side of heel; 46 stitches in all.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: Knit 1, Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over the last knit stitch (1 decrease), Knit to last 3 stitches, Knit 2 together, Knit 1.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 30 stitches remain. Work even until piece is same length as instep.

Put instep stitches on DP needle (or 2, if you have a 5 needle set), divide heel stitches on 2 DP needles.

Round 1: Join contrasting color (green or red, I used the same color as the heel) at beginning of instep. Knit across, decrease 1 stitch each end of needle (each end of instep). Knit stitches on heel needles.

Round 2: Knit around.

Round 3: Knit around, decreasing 1 stitch each end of instep needle, decrease 1 stitch at beginning of first heel needle and decrease one stitch at end of 2^nd heel needle, 4 stitches decreased.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until 20 stitches remain.  Weave remaining stitches together, using the Kitchener stitch.

Sew seams (each side of foot and the top stocking section). 

The finished stocking is shown at the left.

Here are some of the photos I have of stockings I’ve knit in the past… some of them are over 40 years old and have been used every Christmas for that many years! I am delighted that they are cherished by each recipient… and they are over-sized, so Santa has plenty of room to fill them with fruit, nuts, candy, and even some special gifts… the best things sometimes come in small packages.

What are some of your holiday traditions? I hope your holiday is filled with cherished memories, as well as new experiences added as each holiday is celebrated. And from our house to yours… Wishes for a Happy Holiday Season with Joy overflowing in your heart!