I’ve got a Secret… Fat Quarter Folding Totes:
Now, during the holiday hiatus of many shows, the Game Show
Network has old reruns of I've Got A Secret and What’s My Line. They aren't THAT old… I've Got A Secret is
the “new” version of the show, with Steve Allen hosting, and the one I watched
was from 1961. It’s hard to believe that
it’s been over 50 years since that show originally aired! In the fall of 1961, I became a mother. My firstborn child was born on 9-11… and that
date now has a completely different memory attached to it, since the bombing of
the Twin Towers in New York. Times have
changed so much since the 1960’s… hairstyles, clothing fashions... when women wore
undergarments that drastically changed their body shapes! Waists were cinched in, girdles held tummies
flat, and bras were uplifting and transformed breasts into pointed objects… and
remember nylon stockings with garter belts?
No wonder it took us so long to get dressed. Women wore dresses
in the 60’s. Now, it’s unique to see a
woman in a dress, in this era of comfortable pants and elastic waists that expand
as our waistlines grow. Men’s lapels
were wide, and so were their ties. Today,
as I brushed my curls out, I realized that my hairstyle now is much the same as
it was in 1960 in my graduation photo.
The ratted hair and beehive hairdos came later, when I was busy raising
toddlers and had little time for worrying about following fashion. I've got a secret of my own… the “Real” me is
that 19 year old young woman hiding inside me, that no one knows about or
sees… but me.
Recently, I found this website: http://zaaberry.blogspot.com/2011/05/tote-tutorial-totorial.html
and saw her tutorial for the fold-up tote bag. (Check out her tutorials… she has some other
cute ideas!) I thought I could make it
from fat quarters… I have a lot of "mystery box" fat quarters that don’t fit well into my quilting ideas, but they make cute and colorful bibs and
other small projects. I incorporated
some changes for my own tutorial that make it even more to my liking!
This tote takes about 5 minutes to do the serging and about 30
minutes to sew the rest of the bag, This
does not count cutting the pieces, however.
By sewing several at once, the time per bag can be lessened a bit, if
you do them assembly-line fashion. Now,
bear in mind that I have slowed down in my old age! You may be able to make one faster than I
can!
Each tote takes two fat quarters: one for the main part and one for the band
and straps. Ironing the fat quarters before cutting is advisable, as the
folds may prevent accurate cutting. If you have a serger, it works great for joining the pieces,
since the bag is not lined. Alternately,
French seams will also look neat on the inside of the bag, or you can zig-zag
the seam to enclose it. Cut off all selvages.
Fat quarters vary a bit in size; some are 18” x 21” and some are 18” x
22”. Cut the main color fat quarter to
measure 16” x 22” (or 21”). Cut two
pieces from the main color, 16 by 11, or
16” x 10-1/2”, if the fat quarter measures 18” X 21”. 16” is going to be the width of the tote. The smaller measurement will be the height of
the main part of the tote.
Next, cut the bands and straps from the contrasting fat
quarter. With the fabric doubled, cut
two strips 4” x 22” for the straps.
There should be 10” x 22” remaining.
Lay it flat on the cutting board and cut it 16” long, or the same length
as the width of the body of the tote bag, so the result is a piece 10” x 16”. Cut it into two 5”x 16” pieces. This is for the band at the top of the main
color.
Cut a 6” length of round elastic. This will be for the closure. Position the two ends of the elastic at the top
center of the main color on the front of the bag, forming a loop, and stitch
across it several times to secure it well.
When the band is joined to the main color, the elastic loop will be
between the two pieces.
Join the band to the main body, front and back. There are now two pieces, approximately 16” x
1 6”. Press this seam down and stitch it
in place a scant ¼” from the seam so the seam allowance is secured on the
inside. Join front to back on both sides
and across the bottom. Again, if you don’t serge the seams, edge them
with a zig-zag stitch or do a French seam to prevent them from raveling.
Serge (or fold under ¼”) the top of the bag. Fold under about 3/4” to the inside. Stitch along the bottom of the fold and again
near the top of the bag so that the folded portion is stitched down on the top
and bottom.
Straps: Press each 4”
x 22” strip in half, wrong sides together.
Open out, wrong side up, and press each edge in to meet the middle
fold. Fold in half again, enclosing the
raw edges. The strap will be comprised
of four thicknesses of fabric. Stitch along both long sides, close to the edge.
Turn under about 1/2” on each end of the straps and stitch in place. (See photo at right.)
Mark about 3” in from each side of the bag for the strap
position. Pin to the bag at the 3” mark,
about 3/4” down from the top edge of the bag.
Double check to make sure the strap isn’t twisted before sewing. Sew the strap to the top of the bag across the top, down each side, and across the
bottom, in a box shape, then sew corner to corner, an “X” in the center of the
box. Repeat with the other three ends of the straps. If you wish, you may put some stabilizer on the wrong side of the bag for extra stability, but it isn't necessary to do so.
Sew a button to the band, about 3” up from the elastic loop. I had fun rummaging through my button basket
to find the right buttons for my bags.
With the little piece left over after cutting the contrast
color, a pocket could be sewn on the front or back… or on the inside, if you
prefer. I sewed two pieces together,
leaving a space for turning, and turned right side out and pressed. Position the pocket about 2” down from the
elastic loop, and topstitch the pocket to the main fabric of the tote,
making
sure to stitch the place you left open to turn the pocket in the seam. Backstitch at the top edges to secure the
pocket. It works best to sew the pocket
to the main part of the bag before joining the side seams, but it can be done
after if you are careful to keep everything straight, taking care not to catch
any unwanted parts in your seam! The two
layers makes the pocket a bit sturdier. A
Velcro strip can be sewn to the pocket and bag at the top to close the pocket,
if desired, or it can be closed with a button and buttonhole... or just left
open. Depending on the size of the pocket, it can
hold a cell phone, keys, library card, or credit card.
I have left some of the bags at 18” wide, but then I add
another contrasting band between the main body and the band, which requires
additional fabric. In most cases, a
jelly roll strip (2-1/2”) works well.
Large Tote:
Cut 2 pieces of main fabric, each 10-1/2” or 11” x 18”, depending on how wide
the fat quarter is.
From one 2-1/2” contrasting strip to use between band and
main body, cut 2 pieces, each 2-1/2” x 18”.
Cut the straps the same as for the smaller tote.
Cut the bands 5” x 18”.
Sew the tote bag the same as in the first example. The only
difference is that it will be wider and a bit longer. The boxed bottom is made the same way, but it
can be a wider “box” by sewing 3” from the point of the triangle, if desired. Larger variations are shown at the right.
To fold the bag, lay the bag flat and fold each side in at the
point where the straps are attached.
Fold the straps down. Roll,
beginning at the bottom, and at the top, secure the roll with the button and
elastic loop. It is small and can easily
fit in a purse or the glove compartment of your vehicle, ready for a time when
you need a bag to put things in, such as a trip to the library. ends of the straps.
Variations and Pitfalls:
It works best to fold both ends in, leaving a slight space
between them when making the straps.
This allows for easier folding the final fold when the two edges aren’t
actually meeting or overlapping. One of
the most difficult things was pressing these narrow pieces with steam and not burning
my fingers with the steam, so take care! It doesn't matter if you sew your strap to the right or left
of your mark…just be consistent with all of the straps. It was easier to sew the straps on with the
bag inside-out. It was easier to stitch
the top and band seams with the bag right-side out, stitching on the wrong side
of the bag. Take care when sewing the
straps to the top of the bag… it is almost easier to sew another bag than to
rip one out that’s sewn on the wrong spot!
That happened to me on the THIRTEENTH bag! No wonder #13 has a reputation for bad luck. Here are a few variations on the basic bag.
This is a good way to use up those bright prints and gaudy colors that don’t
fit well into a quilt. Wild colors are
great in this tote! They look bright and
cheerful… a fun project to gift to a friend. It can be used as a gift bag, and
can be utilized as a tote bag when the gifts are removed. Use your imagination and have fun!
About 10 years ago, I divided up my buttons and gave each of
my girls a container of them, along with a fitted-out sewing basket of their
own… but I still have a little basket of buttons left. There are strands of elastic thread and
big-eyed needles in the basket, as well, from my children and after that, my
grandchildren, toddlers who sat in my sewing room and strung buttons to make
necklaces and bracelets, while I sewed. I
think some of the buttons are probably over 50 years old, so they can
probably be considered antiques.
Antiques, bit not junk… I’m glad I collected them from dresses, blouses,
shirts, jackets, etc. The useable fabric
from those articles of clothing was cut up and sewn into new things, but not
until the buttons were removed and strung together to be used on something
new. So many memories reside with the
buttons in the basket… memories that have little meaning to anyone but me. Perhaps it's time for these buttons
to decorate someone else’s life… I hope when the bag has reached the end of
its life, the button will continue its journey on another cherished item!